With the truck on the ground, begin by disconnecting the front trac bar at the frame.

Unbolt the swaybar links at the axle before jacking up and securing the truck. This hardware is reused.

Remove the front shocks. The bushings will be reused.

Unbolt the steering stabilizer at its stem end.

Separate the draglink from the pitman arm using the appropriate puller.

Unbolt the front brake hoses at their coil-tower mounts.

Unbolt the brake-hose brackets at the frame.

Carefully lower the front axle until the front coils pop loose. The rubber isolators will be reused.

Note how the stock pitman arm is indexed on the sector shaft before removing it with the appropriate puller.

The Superlift dropped pitman arm restores the factory draglink angle.

Index the Superlift pitman arm on the steering box, then secure it using copious amounts of thread-locking compound.

Remove the factory trac bar bracket from the frame.

Scrape any excess undercoating off the frame before mounting the Superlift trac bar bracket.

Five bolts securely fasten the Superlift trac-bar bracket to the frame.

Disconnect the ABS bracket, then unbolt the radius arms from the

Unbolt the radius arms from the frame and remove them.

Trim off the radius arms’ slotted lower tabs.

On the driver’s side arm, the nut on the upper tab is carefully removed by grinding off the spot welds. This nut will be reused

Place the Superlift Caster Brackets on the radius arms so that they butt against the pinch welds. Hold in place with factory bolts.

Using the Caster Brackets as guides, drill a ¾” hole through the radius arms.

Attach the Caster Brackets to the radius arms using a combination of factory hardware and the kits’ bolts and sleeves.

Bolt the Superlift 4” drop brackets to the OE radius-arm frame mounts.

Optional Radius Armor dress-up panels can be installed now or later.

Attach the radius arms rear-first. Don’t tighten yet.

The axle might have to be shimmied back and forth on the floorjack to align its radius-arm holes.

Yank out the factory front bumpstop snubbers, then unbolt their mounting cups.

Use the Superlift bumpstop extension brackets as templates for marking and drilling two additional mounting holes per side.

Bolt the extension brackets to the truck’s frame.

Hog out the mounting cups’ holes to 3/8”.

The factory cups and OE snubbers bolt to the Superlift brackets.

The Superlift 8-inch coil (left) is pre-stressed to limit sag from spring fatigue. These springs are almost twice as tall as stock.

The kit’s swaybar extensions thread onto the stock links, spanning the increased distance to the axle.

Lower the axle if necessary to make room for the Superlift coils. Transplant the OE rubber isolators, and make sure that the coils’ pigtails seat in the lower buckets. Raise the axle until the isolators are secure in the upper buckets.

Brake line upper extension brackets bolt to the coil towers. The lower brackets attach to the axle in their stock locations.

Front SSR shocks and Bulletproof brake hoses are two of the available upgrades.

Once the vehicle is on the ground, the trac bar can be reconnected to the Superlift drop bracket, using the kit’s notched keys.

PDC trimmed the front air dam for extra tire clearance.

Begin the rear lift by disconnecting the swaybar links (the hardware is reused) and removing the existing shocks.

Unbolt the brake line bracket from the diff so that the axle can be lowered to remove the springs.

Once the axle is supported with a jack, next off are the U-bolts.

Remove springs with the shackles attached. (Don’t overextend the vent tube while lowering the axle away from the springs.)

For trucks that have two-piece rear driveshafts, the Superlift carrier-bearing drop kit is required. It spaces the bearing down to lessen the pinion angle.

The Superlift replacement springs (below) have more arch than stock but lack the upper overload leafs.

Insert the bushings and sleeves into the main leafs’ eyes. Then transplant the stock shackles onto the Superlift springs, which are marked to indicate the ends that face forward.

Inspect the spring perches and repair or replace if they aren’t perfectly flat. Otherwise, the new Superlift springs might not seat properly on the axle. Secure the new springs to the frame and place the kit’s blocks onto the axle.

The kit’s U-bolt and plates secure the new springs to the axle.

The factory brakeline bracket is bent downward to compensate for the increase space between the frame and axle. The Superlift kit also includes brackets to relocate the e-brake cables on the driver’s side of the frame.

New shocks install next. Superlift’s optional remote-reservoir SSR models are used here.

Superlift’s load-assist system consists of hollow-rubber springs that mount to the U-bolt plates as well as frame brackets that replace the factory compression travel-stops. The kit’s extended swaybar links are also installed at this time. (Optional Torque Max SS traction bars are visible here.)

The standard Superlift kit includes a bracket that returns the OE steering stabilizer to its factory angle following the lift.

Superlift’s optional dual-stabilizer kit’s outer brackets mount to the tie-rod and its adjuster sleeves.

The center bracket attaches to the diff cover (optional Superlift eXtreme Ring protector shown) and axle tube.

The “3-D”-effect plate serves as the center attachment point for Superlift’s optional stainless-bodied stabilizers.

Attach the skidplate’s mounting hoop to existing frame holes rearward of the radiator core support.

Mark and drill the upper holes in the radiator support. Then secure the plate to the radiator support and Superlift hoop with the included stainless-steel hardware.

Remove the existing diff-cover bolts.

Slide the extreme Ring into position and secure with the kit’s stainless steel bolts.